Uzbekistan or Tajikistan, c. 1970s-80s

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43” length; 16.5” shoulder seam to shoulder seam

All-silk “atlas” faux-ikat with a soft silky hand

Printed cotton facing


Good used condition – a few minor stains, but hardly noticeable in the folds and pattern of the fabric.

Illustrated in SILK and COTTON page 94


Women’s and girls’ dresses called “kuylak” (Uzbek) or “kurta” (Tajik) took several forms. Smock-like ones with spread collars such as this example first became popular as everyday wear during the early decades of the Soviet era (see archival photograph by Max Penson of an Uzbek family, c.1930s-40s). Later on dresses often featured short sleeves and fanciful collar treatments. They were most often sewn from machine-made silk “atlas” ikat in a seemingly endless array of patterns, including printed ikat patterns that were often hard to distinguish from the woven ikats.

The term “atlas” refers to a silk warp/silk weft satin-weave fabric. Most “atlas” ikat from this era was produced in large Soviet-built textile combines in Uzbekistan and Tajikistan.

The young women in the bottom photograph from an Uzbek fashion magazine (1975) are wearing atlas ikat dresses in the latest styles.

If you are interested in this dress and would like more information, please contact Susan Meller.


Price: $50.00
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