Vintage Fabric Bazaar

vintage_cloth_pillowsSome of the fabrics offered here are from Uzbekistan and Russia.  (While some are from other parts of the world.) They are similar to, or the same as those illustrated in RUSSIAN TEXTILES and SILK and COTTON. It is often difficult to tell whether a particular 20th century fabric was printed in Russia and exported to Central Asia, or whether it was actually printed in one of the large textile combines that the Soviets established there starting in the 1930s. Either way, the patterns and colors are those favored by the people of Central Asia. These fabrics were most often used for light-weight summer robes, quilts (“kurpa”) or lining material for suzanis and other hangings. The pillows in this photograph were made from fabrics from Uzbekistan.

 

CHINESE CULTURAL REVOLUTION CLOTH (VFNB-169)

 

China, circa 1969
74” x 30.5”
Silk-screened cotton
Good condition except for four holes where warp threads are missing (12” up from bottom – see last photo) – otherwise sound with no fading or color runs. (The small white spots seen here and there in the photos are bits of cotton batting).
Both selvedges intact.

This pattern from the Cultural Revolution features views of various factories set among roses.
This length of cloth was used as a quilt or mattress cover.

Price: $175.00
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CHINESE CULTURAL REVOLUTION CLOTH (VFNB-168)

 

China, circa 1969
73” x 30”
Silk-screened cotton
Good condition except for some stains on lower portion (see photo) – otherwise sound with no fading or color runs. (The small white spots seen here and there in the photos are bits of cotton batting).
Both selvedges intact.

This pattern from the Cultural Revolution features scenes of small groups of people in traditional garb of the time scattered among large roses and sunflowers.
This length of cloth was used as a quilt or mattress cover.

Price: $175.00
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ART DECO ORIGINAL TEXTILE DESIGNS (VFOTNB-166)

Germany, 1920s-30s

Gouache on paper
Hand Painted
Condition as shown
$25 each – your choice

These designs were intended for silk jacquard tie fabrics. The designs came from a large ledger – the tie company’s record book.

The sizes as shown: #5: 5″ x 4″ #6: 5″ x 4″ #7: 5″ x 4″ #8: 5.25″ x 4″.

The fabric sample in the last image is an example of a silk jacquard tie fabric based on a design from this ledger (3.75″ x 1.75″). The designs were usually painted in a larger scale than the actual finished fabric.

Price: $25.00
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ART DECO ORIGINAL TEXTILE DESIGNS (VFOTNB-167)

Germany, 1920s-30s

Gouache on paper
Hand Painted
Condition as shown
$25 each – your choice

These designs were intended for silk jacquard tie fabrics. The designs came from a large ledger – the tie company’s record book.

The sizes as shown: #9: 5″ x 3.75″ #10: 5.25″ x 4″ #11: 5.5″ x 3.75″ #12: 5.25″ x 4″.

The fabric sample in the last image is an example of a silk jacquard tie fabric based on a design from this ledger (3.75″ x 1.75″). The designs were usually painted in a larger scale than the actual finished fabric.

Price: $25.00
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ART DECO ORIGINAL TEXTILE DESIGNS (VFOTNB-165)

Germany, 1920s-30s

Gouache on paper
Hand Painted
Condition as shown
$25 each – your choice

These designs were intended for silk jacquard tie fabrics. The designs came from a large ledger – the tie company’s record book.

The sizes as shown: #1: 5″ x 4″ #2: 4.25″ x 4″ #3: 5″ x 4″ #4: 5″ x 4″.

The fabric sample in the last image is an example of a silk jacquard tie fabric based on a design from this ledger (3.75″ x 1.75″). The designs were usually painted in a larger scale than the actual finished fabric.

Price: $25.00
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SILK IKAT CLOTH (VFNB-164)

Uzbekistan

Uzbekistan c. 3rd quarter 20th century
96” x 15” selvedge to selvedge
Machine-woven
Excellent condition (the folds will iron out)
$60 for the entire length

During the Soviet era, textile factories were built to manufacture cloth on a large scale. Some of these enterprises, like the one shown in this photograph taken in Namangan, Uzbekistan in 2008, were set up with machines that could produce woven ikat fabrics. The length of ikat offered here was probably made in one of these smaller factories, although the narrow width suggests it was made at an earlier date than the fabric being woven in the photograph.

Price: $60.00
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OLD JAPANESE INDIGO KASURI FABRICS (VFNB-163)

 

Japan, most likely pre-WWII
Natural indigo-dyed cotton
From left to right: 36” x 13”; 46” x 13.5”; 43” x 13”
All selvedges intact
Excellent condition – all colors are even; no fading; no damage
$60 for all three pieces

Japanese fabrics woven with an ikat technique like this piece are called “kasuri”. Fabrics printed with a pattern created by a stencil (“katagami”) are called “katazome”.

Japanese cotton fabrics were usually woven in narrow widths of around 13”. They were often used to make futon covers with the narrow lengths sewn together to the required size. These fabrics were used for futon covers.

Price: $60.00
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OLD JAPANESE INDIGO KASURI FABRIC (VFNB-162)

 

Japan, most likely pre-WWII
Natural indigo-dyed cotton
43” long x 14” wide
Excellent condition – no fading; no damage

Japanese fabrics woven with an ikat technique like this piece are called “kasuri”. Fabrics printed with a pattern created by a stencil (“katagami”) are called “katazome”.

Japanese cotton fabrics were usually woven in narrow widths of around 13”. They were often used to make futon covers with the narrow lengths sewn together to the required size. This fabric was used for a futon cover.

SOLD

Price: $35.00
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RUSSIAN TRADE CLOTH (VFNB-154)

 

Uzbekistan, c.1880s
Piece of block-printed cotton 26.5” x 22”
Both selvedges intact
Produced in Russia for export to Central Asia
Fair-good used condition – scattered small holes; 4.5” tear on bottom right corner – otherwise colors still strong with no fading or bleeding

While Russia and Great Britain were competing in the Great Game over who would control Central Asia, their respective textile manufacturers were also competing for market share in the great bazaars of Bukhara. Ultimately, it was the Russians who won.

However at the time this fabric was produced, Russian textile mills were still lagging behind their British counterparts in both up-to-date machinery and volume production. The factory that printed this cloth was still using a type of block-printing, perhaps a mechanized process like the perrotine press, while the mills of Manchester were equipped with the latest roller-printing machines.

A solid green was difficult to print by wooden blocks, so green was achieved by overprinting blue with yellow, as in this example. Printed paisleys like this were often used to line ikat robes, or as a less expensive alternative, to make the robe itself from.

Price: $75.00
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RUSSIAN TRADE CLOTH (VFNB-153)

 

Uzbekistan, c.1900
Piece of roller-printed cotton 42” x 14” x 9.5”
Right selvedge intact
Produced in Russia for export to Central Asia
Good used condition

This fabric with an unusual Art Nouveau pattern was part of the lining of a woman’s paranja. A paranja was a cape-like garment that was designed to cover a woman from head to toe whenever she left her home. It was worn draped over ther head with long false sleeves that hung down her back. While most everyday paranjas were drab on the outside, they often were lined with beautiful Russian cotton prints – like this example. It was as if a hidden world of bright colors lay inside that only the woman could see and enjoy.

The bottom two photographs show the back of a gray silk paranja that has been embellished with embroidery and a woman wearing her paranja on a street in Samarland, c.1911. Her face is covered by a stiff black horsehair veil called a “chachvan”.

Price: $50.00
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RUSSIAN TRADE CLOTH (VFNB-152)

 

Uzbekistan, c.1900
Length of roller-printed cotton 86” x 22.5”
Right selvedge intact
Produced in Russia for export to Central Asia
Good used condition except for scattered stains
It looks like this fabric was used as a backing for a large wall hanging.

This pattern is evocative of French home furnishing designs at a time when faux warp prints were popular. While Russian export cloth to Central Asia often depicted faux-ikat patterns in imitation of hand-woven Uzbek ikats, this fabric is imitating European machine-woven warp prints with a decidely Western look. An interesting twist.

The first two images show the fabric folded in half with each side visible.

Price: $90.00
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ZINNIAS (VFNB-152)

ORIGINAL PAINTED TEXTILE DESIGN (VFOTNB-123)

France, c.1920s
Gouache on paper
14” high x 12.5” wide (without the gray edge)
The paint has rubbed off in areas, but is stable and not flaking

This pattern probably would have been printed on cotton cloth and used for home furnishings, e.g. curtains, duvets, etc.

The bottom image shows how the painting would look if framed with an oval mat.

Price: $125.00
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GROUP of 9 JAPANESE SILK SAMPLES (VFNBBB-143)

 

Japan, 1960s-70s
Each piece: 26”-27” x 14” selvedge to selvedge
Printed on heavyweight silk
Perfect unused condition

These pieces of fabric were bought in Japan in the 1970s from a shop that sold kimono fabric. They were the store’s samples from which orders were placed. The silk is very strong and the colors vivid. The motifs are outlined in gold that glows in the light. These fabrics were probably screen-printed and are more recent versions of traditional hand-painted silk yuzen.

They would make striking and sturdy pillows. Definitely not shibui.

$150 for the group of 9 fabrics

Price: $100.00
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VINTAGE JAPANESE SILK PRINT (VFNBBB-142)

 

Japan, mid-20th century or older
20” x 14” selvedge to selvedge
Printed on silk “chirimen” (textured silk crepe)
Good condition except for area in top right corner (see bottom photo)

This fabric looks like it was stencil-printed. If a katagami (stencil) was used, then a resist paste would have been applied through the stencil. When dry, the fabric would have been immersed in a dye vat of the deep red ground color. Later the resist paste would be removed. This fabric was originally part of a kimono.

Price: $50.00
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VINTAGE JAPANESE HAND-PAINTED SILK YUZEN (VFNB-141)

 

Japan, mid-20th century or older
36” x 14” selvedge to selvedge
Hand-Painted on silk “chirimen” (textured silk crepe)
Good condition except for small repair (see bottom detail photo); seam marks on edges

This fabric (called “yuzen”) was hand-painted with textile dyes by means of a complicated process. It was originally part of a woman’s kimono.

Price: $100.00
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VINTAGE JAPANESE HAND-PAINTED SILK YUZEN (VFNBBB-140)

 

Japan, mid-20th century or older
19” x 14” selvedge to selvedge
Hand-Painted on silk “chirimen” (textured silk crepe)
Good condition except for small hole near top right corner; torn area on top left edge; tiny stitching holes where seam threads were removed

This fabric (called “yuzen”) was hand-painted with textile dyes by means of a complicated process. It was originally part of a woman’s kimono.

Price: $50.00
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VINTAGE JAPANESE HAND-PAINTED SILK YUZEN FRAGMENT (VFNBBB-139)

 

Japan, mid-20th century or older
15” x 13.5” selvedge to selvedge
Hand-Painted on silk “chirimen” (textured silk crepe)
Very good condition – no damage

This fabric (called “yuzen”) was hand-painted with textile dyes by means of a complicated process. It would have been used for a woman’s kimono. It depicts two phoenixes in flight among paulownia flowers.

Price: $25.00
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GROUP of 6 VINTAGE JAPANESE HAND-PAINTED SILK YUZEN (VFNBBB-138)

 

Japan, mid-20th century or older
Assorted sizes
Hand-Painted on silk “chirimen” (textured silk crepe)
All selvedges intact (second dimension is the width) except for #5 Harvest Rake
Good condition – some minor imperfections

These fabrics (called “yuzen”) were hand-painted with textile dyes by means of a complicated process. They would have been used for women’s kimonos. The fragment sizes are as follows: Maple Leaves 17” x 14.4”; #2 Willow Tree on dark purple 15” x 14.25”; #3 Pine Boughs 11.75” x 15.5”; #4 Birds and Flowers 14” x 13”; #5 Harvest Rake 13” x 13”; #6 Leaves 12” x 15”.

Price: $50.00
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VINTAGE JAPANESE HAND-PAINTED SILK YUZEN (VFNB-137)

 

Japan, mid-20th century or older
25.75” long x 14.5” (selvedge to selvedge)
Hand-Painted on silk “chirimen” (textured silk crepe)
Good condition – one very small hole, hardly noticeable

This fabric (called “yuzen”) was hand-painted with textile dyes by means of a complicated process. It would have been used for a woman’s kimono. This is a fall pattern of chrysanthemums growing on latticework

Price: $75.00
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VINTAGE JAPANESE HAND-PAINTED SILK YUZEN FRAGMENT (VFNB-136)

 

Japan, mid-20th century or older
15” long x 14.5” (selvedge to selvedge)
Hand-Painted on silk “chirimen” (textured silk crepe)
Very good condition – no damage

This fabric (called “yuzen”) was hand-painted with textile dyes by means of a complicated process. It would have been used for a woman’s kimono. The scene depicts the interior of a traditional Japanese house.

Price: $50.00
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VINTAGE JAPANESE HAND-PAINTED SILK YUZEN (VFNBBB-135)

 

Japan, mid-20th century or older
Two separate pieces: 20.5” long x 9” (one selvedge) and 32.5” long x 6.5” (one selvedge)
Hand-Painted on silk “chirimen” (textured silk crepe)
Good condition except for slight marks where stitching was removed.

This fabric (called “yuzen”) was hand-painted with textile dyes by means of a complicated process. This piece was originally part of a young boy’s kimono. It probably depicts characters from a Japanese fairy tale.

Price: $50.00
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VINTAGE JAPANESE HAND-PAINTED SILK YUZEN (VFNBBB-134)

 

Japan, mid-20th century or older
30” long x 14” (selvedge to selvedge)
Hand-Painted on silk “chirimen” (textured silk crepe)
Good condition except for one small hole and notch in the left selvedge.

This fabric (called “yuzen”) was hand-painted with textile dyes by means of a complicated process. This piece was originally part of a woman’s kimono. It shows two peacocks among lilies, carnations, lily-of-the-valley, spider mums, and other flowers.

Price: $30.00
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VINTAGE JAPANESE HAND-PAINTED SILK YUZEN (VFNBBB-133)

 

Japan, mid-20th century or older
24” long x 13” (selvedge to selvedge)
Hand-Painted on silk “chirimen” (textured silk crepe)
Good condition except for some very small scattered holes and notches in the right selvedge.

This fabric (called “yuzen”) was hand-painted with textile dyes by means of a complicated process. This piece was originally part of a woman’s kimono. It is beautifully designed and executed with subtle shading. Butterflies with faux tie-dye wings fly among cherry blossoms, peonies, sweet peas, and spider mums.

Price: $50.00
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JAPANESE PRINTED FABRIC (VFNB-131)

 

Japan, pre-WWII
33” long x 28” (right selvedge intact)
Roller-printed cotton
Good condition except for two small holes (barely noticeable)

This striking pattern of eagles perched upon sword cases surrounded by full-blown peonies, chrysanthemums, and maple leaves was probably produced in the decade leading up to WWII. Certainly the symbolism of powerful eagles grasping swords in their talons amid iconic Japanese flowers was not lost upon their audience.

The printing is exceptionally well-done, with subtle shading that imparts a three-dimensional look.

Price: $250.00
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EARLY CHINOISERIE BLOCKPRINT (VFNB-128)

 

Probably France, early 19th century
32” high x 33” selvedge to selvedge with a 32” x 7.5” additional joined piece
(The area shown in this image is 13” wide x 12” high – each pagoda group is approximately 2.5” high x 3” wide)
Block-printed on tightly woven cotton
Fair to good condition, fabric still bright and strong – two 2” tears; scattered small holes; a few old carefully mended spots.

This fabric was part of a set of bed hangings. It was entirely sewn by hand with tiny stitches. The pattern has a French Provincial look to it with its somewhat naïve depictions of Chinese pagodas.

At the time this cloth was printed, solid green was difficult to achieve by block-printing. In order to produce green, those areas were first printed with blue pigment and then over-printed with yellow. Often the yellow faded over time and just the blue remained. In this example where the green was achieved by overprinting, the yellow has stayed bright and so have all the green areas.

Price: $125.00
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FRENCH PROVINCIAL FABRIC (VFNB-127)

 

France, early 19th century
17” long x 7.5” wide (left selvedge intact)
Madder dye on tightly woven cotton
Good condition – one very small hole 1” from top

This fabic would most likely been used for women’s apparel. The pinwheel-like floral motifs are similar to ones found on French Provincial printed “mouchoirs” (scarves).

Hard to tell whether it was roller or woodblock printed, although I think it looks more like the former since the registration is so even. The cloth itself has slight irregularities in the thread thickness, but again, hard to tell if it was woven by hand or by machine.

SOLD

Price: $50.00
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18th CENTURY BLOCK-PRINTED FABRIC (VFNB-126)

 

Probably France, second half of the 18th century
16” long x 10.5” wide (left selvedge intact)
Block-printed with madder dye on unbleached cotton
Handwoven, homespun cotton cloth
Very good condition – no damage

Large scale floral patterns in stripe layouts like this were usually intended for use as furnishing fabrics. This piece may well have been part of a bedspread, or set of bed hangings.

The cloth has a soft hand and a pleasing handmade quality that shows the irregularities of the woodblock printing and the cottage-woven cotton fabric.

SOLD

Price: $100.00
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CHINTZ BORDER FABRIC (VFNB-125)

 

Probably English, early 19th century
102” long x 26” wide (selvedge to selvedge)
Roller-printed cotton chintz (glaze is gone)
Fair condition – fabric has softly faded. Still strong enough to use, especially for restoration projects. Two small holes and stain (see 4th photo).

This fabric appears to have been part of a set of bed hangings. The original narrow woven tape is sewn to both ends.

Often chintz yard goods with a layout like this example were incorporated into patchwork or applique quilts. The floral stripes were used as borders. The flower motifs could be appliqued onto the quilt.

Each of the first four images show 1/4 section of the fabric length.
The lighting in these photos is uneven, but the fabric is evenly colored.

Price: $150.00
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18th CENTURY BLOCK-PRINTED FABRIC (VFNB-124)

 

Probably France, second half of the 18th century
31.5” long x 31.5” wide (both selvedges intact)
Madder dye
Handwoven, homespun cotton cloth
Good condition; two small holes as seen in photos

Large scale floral patterns in a serpentine layout like this were usually intended for use as furnishing fabrics. This piece may well have been part of a bedspread, or set of bed hangings.

The cloth has a soft hand and a pleasing handmade quality that shows the irregularities of the woodblock printing and the cottage-woven cotton fabric.

The small black dots, called “picotage”, were made by metal pins that were inserted into the woodblocks.

Price: $125.00
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SEVEN 19th CENTURY RIBBON SAMPLES (VFNB-120)

 

France, 1880s
Silk jacquard
Approximate sizes: A. 3.75” x 2.5”; B. 5.25” x 2.5”; C. 4” x 2.5”; D. 6.25” x 2”; E. 5.75” x 2.5”; F. 4.25” x 4”; G. 3” x 2”
Very good condition

These samples came from French manufacturers’ pattern books. Samples A, B, C, E, and F are silk and were woven on a jacquard machine. Sample D is wool on a silk foundation; G is hand-embroidered.

$40 for all seven ribbons.

Price: $40.00
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FIVE 19th CENTURY SILK JACQUARD SAMPLES (VFNB-119)

 

France, c. 1840s
Silk jacquard
Approximate sizes: #1. 4” x 6”; #2. 2.75” x 4.25”; #3. 2.75” x 4”; #4. 2.75” x 3.75”; #5. 3.25” x 3.5”
Very good condition

These samples came from a French manufacturer’s pattern book. They were woven on a jacquard machine and were the type of fabric that was popular for men’s waistcoats (“gillet”) during this period.

If you are interested in these five jacquard samples please contact Susan Meller.

$50 for all five samples.

Price: $50.00
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18th CENTURY BLOCK-PRINTED COTTON (VFOTNB-122)

 

Europe, second half of the 18th century
25” long x 22” wide
Natural dyes – indigo and probably madder
Handwoven, homespun cotton cloth (front and back)
Backed with indigo-dyed handwoven, homespun cotton
Trim woven with cotton weft and metallic gold warp
Print colors bright and unfaded; some holes but fabric still strong; area of melted wax (see detail photo); trim worn; backing patched

This piece was probably used in a church – perhaps as some sort of altar cloth as there is an area of melted wax. The gold trimming was costly and often used on ecclesiastical textiles.

Except for a few holes and the spilled wax, the cloth is in good condition. It appears to be one piece of fabric. The main flower is a stylized tulip.

SOLD

Price: $0.00
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OLD TJAP BATIK STAMP (ATOTVFNB-102)

Java, 20th century

7.75” x 7.5”
Copper with iron handle
Very good condition

This old Indonesian stamp, called a “tjap” was used in the process of making batik. Instead of applying the hot wax with a hand-held tool (“tjanting), the hot wax could be stamped on the cloth with a tjap like this example. After successive applications of wax and dye baths, the wax was removed after the final dyeing.

A booklet describing this process with actual batik samples showing each step is offered under BAZAAR – RARE & VINTAGE BOOKS.

Price: $75.00
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OLD BATIK SAMPLES Showing Dyeing Steps (VFOTNB-117)

Java, 20th century

Each piece approximately 21” x 10”
Cotton cloth with wax still intact
Very good condition

These samples show five steps in the wax batik process. Each piece of cloth still retains the wax as applied in that particular step. The wax has not been scraped off the final sample.

These pieces give a real hands-on feeling of the different dyeing stages that can often be hard to discern from photographs.

A booklet is also offered on my website (under BAZAAR – RARE & VINTAGE BOOKS) that explains the process step by step and also includes actual batik samples.

Price: $75.00
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NORWICH SHAWL (ATRVFNB-210)

England, circa 1930s

54” x 60”
Taupe wool twill-weave ground with wool figures in seven colors
Silk fringe added by hand, one separate tassel at a time
Unlined
Has condition issues – scattered moth holes; old repairs; area of discoloration to the background. No color runs.

All in all, still an attractive piece that would work well as a table cover. Or one wouldn’t have to feel too guilty cutting it up for pillows (enough good fabric for several), or other sewing projects.

The first four photos each show one quarter of the shawl in this order:
Top left quarter; top right quarter; bottom left quarter; bottom right quarter.
(It was too large for me to photograph the entire piece.)

Price: $75.00
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VINTAGE CHILDREN’S PANDA-PRINT COTTON CLOTH (VFNB-118)

Sanderson, England. c.1950s

Two joined lengths of sturdy medium-weight cotton fabric: 67” long (with an additional 3″ hem) x 57” wide (selvedges on both panels are almost intact)
12 screens used as denoted by 12 small different colored circles along the selvedges.
The fabric is strong with no holes, tears, or color runs – however there are scattered water stains as seen in the photos.

There is enough clean fabric to make several pillows – the largest being about 32″ high x 28.5″ wide (wider if including seam) and the other 24″ high x 28″ wide. Smaller pillows can also be made from the rest of the clean areas.

And many of the figures themselves are clean and widely spaced, making them perfect for applique work and patchwork.

SOLD

Price: $0.00
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VINTAGE FAUX-IKAT COTTON QUILT COVER (VFOTSC-118)

Uzbekistan, circa 1970s

87” long x 74” wide
Three joined lengths of good quality printed-cotton fabric: 2 panels at 87”x30”; one panel 87”x14”
Very good condition except for one small tear and one patch (see bottom photos). Fabric strong.
Illustrated in SILK and COTTON, page 272

This was used as a quilt cover (“kurpa”) over a thick cotton insert. Many Uzbek homes had little furniture and “kurpas” such as this example were spread on the floor at night to sleep on. During the day they would be folded up and neatly stacked with other bedding in a pile against the wall. This stack was called a “chuk”

The archival photograph by Max Penson, c.1930s-40s, shows an Uzbek family having a meal with stacks of bedding quilts lining the wall behind them. A faux-ikat quilt can be seen in the top left corner.

The top photo shows one quarter of the quilt cover (too large for me to shoot the entire piece).

Price: $75.00
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RUSSIAN TRADE CLOTH (VFOTSC-119)

Exported to Uzbekistan, c.1900

Length of roller-printed cotton 56” x 22.5”
Right selvedge intact, but missing 1.5” along the left side
Produced in Russia for export to Central Asia
Good condition. This fabric was used as a quilt cover or backing so there are small scattered holes where the batting was tacked down – all hardly noticeable. There are a few ¼” holes that are visible in the detail photos.
Illustrated in SILK and COTTON , page 288

This is an unusual pattern with its clocks (hands frozen at 1:30) and ornate chandeliers. It was made in Russian during the late 19th – early 20th century most likely specifically for export to Central Asia. While this piece was used to make a quilt – other examples from my collection with this same pattern lined a woman’s paranja and a silk ikat robe. All of these pieces were found in Uzbekistan.

Price: $100.00
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FAUX IKAT COTTON CLOTH (VFRT-117)

Central Asia, c.1970s

27.5” selvedge to selvedge; 70” length; 15.5” repeat
Factory-printed cotton (fabric is shown folded in half)
Good used condition – three holes (see detail photo) midway in length and 10” in from right selvedge; a few small stains
Illustrated in RUSSIAN TEXTILES page 184

This fabric has a very soft hand and is printed on good quality cotton. It was probably used as a backing at one time. There are no signs of stitching on the fabric except on the selvedge edges.

It was most likely printed in one of the Soviet-built textile combines in either Uzbekistan or Tajikistan.
It will probably wash well by hand in cold water – a sample test did not run.

Price: $50.00
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UZBEK BLOCK-PRINTED COTTON CLOTH (VFNB-116)

Uzbekistan, late 19th-early 20th century

92” long x 57” wide (photos show fabric folded in half)
Five joined lengths of handwoven, homespun cloth; each 11.5” (selvedge to selvedge)
Natural dyes – probably madder
Four holes (two of them patched with printed cotton)
Good to fair condition – small scattered stains and fading

This block-printed cloth was probably used as a backing for a quilt. While rather crudely printed, it has an appealing hand-made look. The printed fabric was called “chit”. The plain-weave cotton cloth itself was called variously, “karbos”; “karbaz”; “bos”; “boz”)

This large amount of fabric could serve well for restoration projects.

Price: $75.00
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FAUX-IKAT QUILT (VFNB-115)

Uzbekistan, circa 1970s

78” high x 69” wide
16” repeat (The entire length of cloth is not shown in the photo.)
Three joined lengths of cotton faux-ikat; each 28”x78” (selvedge to selvedge); 27.5”x78”; 13.5”x72”
Machine-printed faux-ikat front and floral cotton backing; probably printed in the Tashkent Textile Combine
Three cotton patches on the backing
Cotton batting has been removed
The top photo shows one quarter of the folded kurpa.
Good condition except for area of stains along bottom and small area of light red stain (see detail photos). The cloth is strong with no tears or color runs.

Faux-ikat was very popular both for girls’ and womens’ dresses and for bedding quilts and floor cushions. Less expensive than real ikat, it was printed on silk as well as cotton.
There was little furniture in a Central Asian home. Large floor cushions served as seating. Thick quilts (called “kurpa”) were laid on the floor and acted as mattresses and covers. When not in use, they were folded and carefully stacked against a wall. This pile of bedding quilts was called a “chuk”.

The archival photo (c.1930s-40s) by Max Penson shows an Uzbek family taking a meal with their stack of quilts piled neatly behind them. The top left quilt is made from faux-ikat cloth.
The bottom photo was taken recently in the Tashkent kurpa bazaar.

Price: $125.00
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PEONIES and SCROLLWORK (VFOTNB-106)

Uzbekistan, circa 1970s

86” x 36” (selvedge to selvedge – both selvedges intact)
9.5″ repeat (The entire length of cloth is not shown in the photo)
Screen-printed cotton
Good condition, except for two small holes about an inch apart.

A pretty length of floral fabric – most likely used for a quilt cover.
It has been machine-washed with no shrinkage or color runs.
Nice soft hand and mellowed colors.

Beginning in the 1930s, the Soviets built large textile combines in Central Asia that both wove and printed cloth. This fabric was very likely produced in the Tashkent Textile Combine – the largest in Central Asia.

If you are interested in this length of cotton cloth and would like more information please contact Susan Meller.

$50 for the entire length

ON HOLD

Price: $50.00
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FAUX-IKAT CLOTH (VFOTNB-115)

Uzbekistan, circa 1980s

96” x 39” (selvedges may have been removed, but this is a standard width)
13” repeat (The entire length of cloth is not shown in the photo.)
May be silk, or perhaps a silk blend
Machine-woven and screen-printed
Like-new condition

Faux-ikat was very popular with Central Asian women and girls. Printed ikat such as this cloth would have been made into chemises like the one in the photo below.

The photograph of young women modeling the latest styles is from an Uzbek fashion magazine from 1975.

If you are interested in this fabric, please contact Susan Meller.

Price: $75 for the entire length

Price: $75.00
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FAUX-IKAT SILK SATEEN (VFOTNB-114)

Uzbekistan, circa 1980s

94” x 38” selvedge to selvedge (both selvedges intact)
28” repeat (Each orange tulip is 12” from top to bottom of the stem. The entire length of cloth is not shown in the photo.)
Machine-woven and screen-printed high luster silk sateen with tulip motifs
Printed at the V.V. Kuybisheva Factory, Margilan
Like-new condition

Faux-ikat was very popular with Central Asian women and girls. Printed silk ikat such as this cloth would have been made into chemises like the one in the photo below.

The photograph of young women modeling the latest styles is from an Uzbek fashion magazine from 1975.

If you are interested in this fabric, please contact Susan Meller.

Price: $75 for the entire length

Price: $75.00
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UZBEK PRINTED COTTON CLOTH (VFOTNB-113)

Uzbekistan, circa 1970s

80” x 31” (selvedge to selvedge)
Good quality cotton
Selvedges intact
Good condition,except for some light stains (see bottom four photos)

A pretty length of floral fabric – most likely used for a quilt cover.

Beginning in the 1930s, the Soviets built large textile combines in Central Asia that both wove and printed cloth. This fabric was very likely produced in the Tashkent Textile Combine – the largest in Central Asia.

$75 for the entire length.

Price: $75.00
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CHINESE CULTURAL REVOLUTION CLOTH (VFOTNB-112)

China, circa 1969

80” x 30”
Silk-screened cotton
Good condition except for 5 small holes; small tear; and some stains – otherwise sound with no fading or color runs. (The small white spots seen here and there in the photos are bits of cotton batting).
Both selvedges intact

This pattern from the Cultural Revolution features vignettes of “The Long March” amid balloons and traditional peonies and pine boughs.
This length of cloth was used as a quilt or mattress cover.

Price: $200.00
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FAUX-IKAT (VFSC-108)

Uzbekistan or Tajikistan, c.1960s-1980s

Printed silk blend?; 29” selvedge to selvedge; 15” repeat.
Illustrated in SILK and COTTON page 272

This fabric has a very soft hand and drape. The weft appears to be silk, perhaps a blend with a cotton warp. There are a few small stains and a few tiny holes that are barely noticeable in the 80” length. Both selvedges are intact. The cloth was originally used as a quilt cover. It has been machine-washed with no shrinkage or color runs.

80″ Length

SOLD

Price: $0.00 per yard
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ROSE CLUSTERS (VFOTNB-105)

Uzbekistan, c.1970s

Fine quality printed cotton sateen; 29” selvedge to selvedge; 15” repeat (see pillow in photo above).

This fabric and “Roses and Violets” were both probably printed at the Tashkent Textile Combine, the huge vertical mill that was the largest in the Soviet Union at this time. Except for the blue violets, both patterns have the same color palette.

This length of cloth has never been used and is in excellent condition. A test piece was washed in cold water with mild soap and there was no color run.

Sold in 1 yard increments, or $175 for the entire uncut 140” length.

Price: $50.00 per yard
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FLORAL STRIPE with ROSES (VFOTNB-104)

Uzbekistan, c.1960s

Fine quality printed cotton sateen; 27.75” selvedge to selvedge; 16.5” repeat.

A very dramatic pattern with its oversized deep coral roses nestled among blue daisy-like flowers. This length of cloth has never been used and is in excellent condition. A test piece was washed in cold water with mild soap and there was no color run.

Sold in 1 yard increments, or $250 for the entire uncut 6 yard length.

Price: $50.00 per yard
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FAUX-IKAT COTTON CLOTH (VFOTNB-103)

Uzbekistan or Tajikistan, c.1970s

Fine quality printed cotton sateen; 28.5” selvedge to selvedge; 9.5” repeat. (see pillow in photo above).

4 uncut yards in excellent unused condition

Printed in either Uzbekistan or Tajikistan in one of the large textile combines built during the Soviet era.

Other examples of fabrics with printed-ikat patterns are illustrated in SILK and COTTON, pages 272-273.

Faux-ikats were considerably less expensive that the real thing and were very popular with women and girls for robes, dresses, and quilts. The patterns were printed on cotton, silk, and synthetics in the textile mills of Uzbekistan, Tajikistan, and Kyrgyzstan.

This length of cloth has never been used and is in excellent condition. This fabric was not washed because a test piece lost some of the intensity of the sage green when washed in cold water with mild soap.

$125 for the entire length.

Price: $125.00
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