Vintage Fabric Bazaar

vintage_cloth_pillowsSome of the fabrics offered here are from Uzbekistan and Russia.  (While some are from other parts of the world.) They are similar to, or the same as those illustrated in RUSSIAN TEXTILES and SILK and COTTON. It is often difficult to tell whether a particular 20th century fabric was printed in Russia and exported to Central Asia, or whether it was actually printed in one of the large textile combines that the Soviets established there starting in the 1930s. Either way, the patterns and colors are those favored by the people of Central Asia. These fabrics were most often used for light-weight summer robes, quilts (“kurpa”) or lining material for suzanis and other hangings. The pillows in this photograph were made from fabrics from Uzbekistan.

 

ANIMAL TRAPPING BACKING (ATATBBNB-123

Central Asia, mid-20th century?

36” wide x 27.5” long (not including fringe)
Silk “atlas” ikat in center – the rest of the fabrics are cotton
Backed with hand-woven and factory-made cotton cloth
Printed-cotton rag fringe
Entirely hand-sewn
Tears in ikat, otherwise sound

This piece was probably used as an animal trapping of some kind.
The movement of the rag fringe would confuse evil spirits who would fear becoming entangled in it, thus serving as a protective device.

The printed cotton on the back has an Art Nouveau feeling. It’s a clever way of utilizing a single color with thick and thin lines to create interest and movement to the design. It measures 13″ x 6.5″ and was printed either in Russia or Central Asia.

Price: $35.00
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FAUX-IKAT CLOTH (VFNB-196)

Probably Uzbekistan, c.1970s-80s

Silk-screened synthetic fabric
57” long x 39” wide (no finished selvedges, but appears to be the full width)
Very good unused condition (needs ironing)

Less expensive than woven silk ikat, faux-ikat fabric like this was popular for everyday girl’s and women’s dresses.
The young women in this photograph from an Uzbek fashion magazine (1975) are wearing printed-ikat dresses in the latest styles.

This cloth was most likely printed in one of the Soviet-built textile combines in either Uzbekistan or Tajikistan.

Price: $75.00
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FAUX IKAT CLOTH (VFNB-194)

Probably Uzbekistan, c.1970s-80s

Silk-screened synthetic fabric
48.5” long x 40” wide; 24.5” repeat
Unused condition – scattered small holes (1mm in size) and one small stain (see bottom photos). The holes are shown with black paper behind them.

Less expensive than woven silk ikat, faux-ikat fabric like this was popular for everyday girl’s and women’s dresses.
The young women in this photograph from an Uzbek fashion magazine (1975) are wearing printed-ikat dresses in the latest styles.

This cloth was most likely printed in one of the Soviet-built textile combines in either Uzbekistan or Tajikistan. The motifs represent amulets.

Price: $50.00
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1980 MOSCOW OLYMPICS CLOTH (VFNB-193)

Russia, 1980

42” long x 49 wide” (appears to be the full width although there are no finished selvedges)
Silk-screened synthetic fabric
Excellent unused condition. (The second image shows the complete fabric. (It needs to be ironed. The lighting in this photo is uneven.)

This fabric commemorates the 1980 Summer Olympics held in Moscow from July 19th – August 3rd. It was the first Olympic Games to be staged in Eastern Europe. In 1979 the Soviet Union had invaded Afghanistan and as a protest, then US President Jimmy Carter led a boycott of the games. 66 countries boycotted the games entirely.

The football competition (the pattern on this fabric) was won by Czechoslovakia

Price: $75.00
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"AINA KHALTA" MIRROR BAG (ATTHVFRT-178)

Uzbekistan, 2nd quarter 20th century

19” x 19” (not including fringe)
2” hand-made twisted cotton fringe (2.75” of fringe missing from top corner)
Silk hand-embroidery on fine black velvet
Backed with Russian roller-printed printed cotton fabric
Good condition – some light fading to red embroidery
Lining print Illustrated in RUSSIAN TEXTILES page 120

Small embroideries like this are often called “mirror bags” (aina khalta).
Originally they were backed with a cloth pouch in order to hold a mirror or other small items. More recently, they were simply used as decorative hangings.

The central motif is a stylized sun disk; the four corner images represent rams’ horns that are talismanic emblems.

Price: $100.00
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RUSSIAN TRADE CLOTH (VFRT-192)

Uzbekistan, c.2nd quarter 20th century

Piece of roller-printed cotton cloth: 50″ long x 14.75″ wide (only one selvedge)

Another piece of the same cloth: 51″ long x 30.5″ selvedge to selvedge. Small 1″ tear near the top and a few scattered minor stains (see bottom photo – more photos upon request). Price: $150

Another piece 49″ x 30.5″ selvedge to selvedge. A few small stains and an 8″ x 8″ self-fabric patch. (photos upon request). Price $125.

Produced in Russia for export to Central Asia

Good to fair condition – this fabric was used as the backing of an Uzbek quilt (“kurpa”) and as such there are scattered small holes in the body of the cloth where stitches were removed and along the selvedge; a few minor stains.

Illustrated in RUSSIAN TEXTILES page 114

This lively pattern has a folkloric look. The shading in the flowers and leaves appears to simulate embroidery stitches.

Price: $60.00
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AMERICAN CHILDREN'S PRINTED COTTON (VFNB-190)

 

America, late 19th century

Roller-printed cotton

14″ x 24.25″ selvedge to selvedge (10.25″x12″ as shown)

Excellent condition

This juvenile print was most likely produced in one of the late 19th century New England textile mills, such as Merrimack Mfg. Co. in Lowell, Mass. that was actively turning out hundreds of different printed patterns each season.

Price: $40.00
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CHINESE CULTURAL REVOLUTION CLOTH (VFNB-169)

 

China, circa 1969
74” x 30.5”
Silk-screened cotton
Good condition except for four holes where warp threads are missing (12” up from bottom – see last photo) – otherwise sound with no fading or color runs. (The small white spots seen here and there in the photos are bits of cotton batting).
Both selvedges intact.

This pattern from the Cultural Revolution features views of various factories set among roses.
This length of cloth was used as a quilt or mattress cover.

Price: $175.00
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CHINESE CULTURAL REVOLUTION CLOTH (VFNB-168)

 

China, circa 1969
73” x 30”
Silk-screened cotton
Good condition except for some stains on lower portion (see photo) – otherwise sound with no fading or color runs. (The small white spots seen here and there in the photos are bits of cotton batting).
Both selvedges intact.

This pattern from the Cultural Revolution features scenes of small groups of people in traditional garb of the time scattered among large roses and sunflowers.
This length of cloth was used as a quilt or mattress cover.

Price: $175.00
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RUSSIAN TRADE CLOTH (VFNB-154)

 

Uzbekistan, c.1880s
Piece of block-printed cotton 26.5” x 22”
Both selvedges intact
Produced in Russia for export to Central Asia
Fair-good used condition – scattered small holes; 4.5” tear on bottom right corner – otherwise colors still strong with no fading or bleeding

While Russia and Great Britain were competing in the Great Game over who would control Central Asia, their respective textile manufacturers were also competing for market share in the great bazaars of Bukhara. Ultimately, it was the Russians who won.

However at the time this fabric was produced, Russian textile mills were still lagging behind their British counterparts in both up-to-date machinery and volume production. The factory that printed this cloth was still using a type of block-printing, perhaps a mechanized process like the perrotine press, while the mills of Manchester were equipped with the latest roller-printing machines.

A solid green was difficult to print by wooden blocks, so green was achieved by overprinting blue with yellow, as in this example. Printed paisleys like this were often used to line ikat robes, or as a less expensive alternative, to make the robe itself from.

Price: $75.00
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RUSSIAN TRADE CLOTH (VFNB-152)

 

Uzbekistan, c.1900
Length of roller-printed cotton 86” x 22.5”
Right selvedge intact
Produced in Russia for export to Central Asia
Good used condition except for scattered stains
It looks like this fabric was used as a backing for a large wall hanging.

This pattern is evocative of French home furnishing designs at a time when faux warp prints were popular. While Russian export cloth to Central Asia often depicted faux-ikat patterns in imitation of hand-woven Uzbek ikats, this fabric is imitating European machine-woven warp prints with a decidely Western look. An interesting twist.

The first two images show the fabric folded in half with each side visible.

Price: $90.00
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ZINNIAS (VFNB-152)

ORIGINAL PAINTED TEXTILE DESIGN (VFOTNB-123)

France, c.1920s
Gouache on paper
14” high x 12.5” wide (without the gray edge)
The paint has rubbed off in areas, but is stable and not flaking

This pattern probably would have been printed on cotton cloth and used for home furnishings, e.g. curtains, duvets, etc.

The bottom image shows how the painting would look if framed with an oval mat.

Price: $125.00
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VINTAGE JAPANESE HAND-PAINTED SILK YUZEN (VFNBBB-140)

 

Japan, mid-20th century or older
19” x 14” selvedge to selvedge
Hand-Painted on silk “chirimen” (textured silk crepe)
Good condition except for small hole near top right corner; torn area on top left edge; tiny stitching holes where seam threads were removed

This fabric (called “yuzen”) was hand-painted with textile dyes by means of a complicated process. It was originally part of a woman’s kimono.

Price: $50.00
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VINTAGE JAPANESE HAND-PAINTED SILK YUZEN FRAGMENT (VFNBBB-139)

 

Japan, mid-20th century or older
15” x 13.5” selvedge to selvedge
Hand-Painted on silk “chirimen” (textured silk crepe)
Very good condition – no damage

This fabric (called “yuzen”) was hand-painted with textile dyes by means of a complicated process. It would have been used for a woman’s kimono. It depicts two phoenixes in flight among paulownia flowers.

Price: $25.00
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GROUP of 6 VINTAGE JAPANESE HAND-PAINTED SILK YUZEN (VFNBBB-138)

 

Japan, mid-20th century or older
Assorted sizes
Hand-Painted on silk “chirimen” (textured silk crepe)
All selvedges intact (second dimension is the width) except for #5 Harvest Rake
Good condition – some minor imperfections

These fabrics (called “yuzen”) were hand-painted with textile dyes by means of a complicated process. They would have been used for women’s kimonos. The fragment sizes are as follows: Maple Leaves 17” x 14.4”; #2 Willow Tree on dark purple 15” x 14.25”; #3 Pine Boughs 11.75” x 15.5”; #4 Birds and Flowers 14” x 13”; #5 Harvest Rake 13” x 13”; #6 Leaves 12” x 15”.

Price: $50.00
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VINTAGE JAPANESE HAND-PAINTED SILK YUZEN (VFNB-137)

 

Japan, mid-20th century or older
25.75” long x 14.5” (selvedge to selvedge)
Hand-Painted on silk “chirimen” (textured silk crepe)
Good condition – one very small hole, hardly noticeable

This fabric (called “yuzen”) was hand-painted with textile dyes by means of a complicated process. It would have been used for a woman’s kimono. This is a fall pattern of chrysanthemums growing on latticework

Price: $75.00
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VINTAGE JAPANESE HAND-PAINTED SILK YUZEN FRAGMENT (VFNB-136)

 

Japan, mid-20th century or older
15” long x 14.5” (selvedge to selvedge)
Hand-Painted on silk “chirimen” (textured silk crepe)
Very good condition – no damage

This fabric (called “yuzen”) was hand-painted with textile dyes by means of a complicated process. It would have been used for a woman’s kimono. The scene depicts the interior of a traditional Japanese house.

Price: $50.00
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VINTAGE JAPANESE HAND-PAINTED SILK YUZEN (VFNBBB-135)

 

Japan, mid-20th century or older
Two separate pieces: 20.5” long x 9” (one selvedge) and 32.5” long x 6.5” (one selvedge)
Hand-Painted on silk “chirimen” (textured silk crepe)
Good condition except for slight marks where stitching was removed.

This fabric (called “yuzen”) was hand-painted with textile dyes by means of a complicated process. This piece was originally part of a young boy’s kimono. It probably depicts characters from a Japanese fairy tale.

Price: $50.00
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VINTAGE JAPANESE HAND-PAINTED SILK YUZEN (VFNBBB-134)

 

Japan, mid-20th century or older
30” long x 14” (selvedge to selvedge)
Hand-Painted on silk “chirimen” (textured silk crepe)
Good condition except for one small hole and notch in the left selvedge.

This fabric (called “yuzen”) was hand-painted with textile dyes by means of a complicated process. This piece was originally part of a woman’s kimono. It shows two peacocks among lilies, carnations, lily-of-the-valley, spider mums, and other flowers.

Price: $30.00
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VINTAGE JAPANESE HAND-PAINTED SILK YUZEN (VFNBBB-133)

 

Japan, mid-20th century or older
24” long x 13” (selvedge to selvedge)
Hand-Painted on silk “chirimen” (textured silk crepe)
Good condition except for some very small scattered holes and notches in the right selvedge.

This fabric (called “yuzen”) was hand-painted with textile dyes by means of a complicated process. This piece was originally part of a woman’s kimono. It is beautifully designed and executed with subtle shading. Butterflies with faux tie-dye wings fly among cherry blossoms, peonies, sweet peas, and spider mums.

Price: $75.00
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CHINTZ BORDER FABRIC (VFNB-125)

 

Probably English, early 19th century
102” long x 26” wide (selvedge to selvedge)
Roller-printed cotton chintz (glaze is gone)
Fair condition – fabric has softly faded. Still strong enough to use, especially for restoration projects. Two small holes and stain (see 4th photo).

This fabric appears to have been part of a set of bed hangings. The original narrow woven tape is sewn to both ends.

Often chintz yard goods with a layout like this example were incorporated into patchwork or applique quilts. The floral stripes were used as borders. The flower motifs could be appliqued onto the quilt.

Each of the first four images show 1/4 section of the fabric length.
The lighting in these photos is uneven, but the fabric is evenly colored.

Price: $150.00
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SEVEN 19th CENTURY RIBBON SAMPLES (VFNB-120)

 

France, 1880s
Silk jacquard
Approximate sizes: A. 3.75” x 2.5”; B. 5.25” x 2.5”; C. 4” x 2.5”; D. 6.25” x 2”; E. 5.75” x 2.5”; F. 4.25” x 4”; G. 3” x 2”
Very good condition

These samples came from French manufacturers’ pattern books. Samples A, B, C, E, and F are silk and were woven on a jacquard machine. Sample D is wool on a silk foundation; G is hand-embroidered.

$40 for all seven ribbons.

Price: $40.00
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FIVE 19th CENTURY SILK JACQUARD SAMPLES (VFNB-119)

 

France, c. 1840s
Silk jacquard
Approximate sizes: #1. 4” x 6”; #2. 2.75” x 4.25”; #3. 2.75” x 4”; #4. 2.75” x 3.75”; #5. 3.25” x 3.5”
Very good condition

These samples came from a French manufacturer’s pattern book. They were woven on a jacquard machine and were the type of fabric that was popular for men’s waistcoats (“gillet”) during this period.

If you are interested in these five jacquard samples please contact Susan Meller.

$50 for all five samples.

Price: $50.00
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OLD BATIK SAMPLES Showing Dyeing Steps (VFOTNB-117)

Java, 20th century

Each piece approximately 21” x 10”
Cotton cloth with wax still intact
Very good condition

These samples show five steps in the wax batik process. Each piece of cloth still retains the wax as applied in that particular step. The wax has not been scraped off the final sample.

These pieces give a real hands-on feeling of the different dyeing stages that can often be hard to discern from photographs.

A booklet is also offered on my website (under BAZAAR – RARE & VINTAGE BOOKS) that explains the process step by step and also includes actual batik samples.

Price: $75.00
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VINTAGE FAUX-IKAT COTTON QUILT COVER (VFOTSC-118)

Uzbekistan, circa 1970s

87” long x 74” wide
Three joined lengths of good quality printed-cotton fabric: 2 panels at 87”x30”; one panel 87”x14”
Very good condition except for one small tear and one patch (see bottom photos). Fabric strong.
Illustrated in SILK and COTTON, page 272

This was used as a quilt cover (“kurpa”) over a thick cotton insert. Many Uzbek homes had little furniture and “kurpas” such as this example were spread on the floor at night to sleep on. During the day they would be folded up and neatly stacked with other bedding in a pile against the wall. This stack was called a “chuk”

The archival photograph by Max Penson, c.1930s-40s, shows an Uzbek family having a meal with stacks of bedding quilts lining the wall behind them. A faux-ikat quilt can be seen in the top left corner.

The top photo shows one quarter of the quilt cover (too large for me to shoot the entire piece).

Price: $75.00
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RUSSIAN TRADE CLOTH (VFOTSC-119)

Exported to Uzbekistan, c.1900

Length of roller-printed cotton 56” x 22.5”
Right selvedge intact, but missing 1.5” along the left side
Produced in Russia for export to Central Asia
Good condition. This fabric was used as a quilt cover or backing so there are small scattered holes where the batting was tacked down – all hardly noticeable. There are a few ¼” holes that are visible in the detail photos.
Illustrated in SILK and COTTON , page 288

This is an unusual pattern with its clocks (hands frozen at 1:30) and ornate chandeliers. It was made in Russian during the late 19th – early 20th century most likely specifically for export to Central Asia. While this piece was used to make a quilt – other examples from my collection with this same pattern lined a woman’s paranja and a silk ikat robe. All of these pieces were found in Uzbekistan.

Price: $100.00
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FAUX IKAT COTTON CLOTH (VFRT-117)

Central Asia, c.1970s

27.5” selvedge to selvedge; 70” length; 15.5” repeat
Factory-printed cotton (fabric is shown folded in half)
Good used condition – three holes (see detail photo) midway in length and 10” in from right selvedge; a few small stains
Illustrated in RUSSIAN TEXTILES page 184

This fabric has a very soft hand and is printed on good quality cotton. It was probably used as a backing at one time. There are no signs of stitching on the fabric except on the selvedge edges.

It was most likely printed in one of the Soviet-built textile combines in either Uzbekistan or Tajikistan.
It will probably wash well by hand in cold water – a sample test did not run.

Price: $50.00
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UZBEK BLOCK-PRINTED COTTON CLOTH (VFNB-116)

Uzbekistan, late 19th-early 20th century

92” long x 57” wide (photos show fabric folded in half)
Five joined lengths of handwoven, homespun cloth; each 11.5” (selvedge to selvedge)
Natural dyes – probably madder
Four holes (two of them patched with printed cotton)
Good to fair condition – small scattered stains and fading

This block-printed cloth was probably used as a backing for a quilt. While rather crudely printed, it has an appealing hand-made look. The printed fabric was called “chit”. The plain-weave cotton cloth itself was called variously, “karbos”; “karbaz”; “bos”; “boz”)

This large amount of fabric could serve well for restoration projects.

Price: $75.00
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FAUX-IKAT QUILT (VFNB-115)

Uzbekistan, circa 1970s

78” high x 69” wide
16” repeat (The entire length of cloth is not shown in the photo.)
Three joined lengths of cotton faux-ikat; each 28”x78” (selvedge to selvedge); 27.5”x78”; 13.5”x72”
Machine-printed faux-ikat front and floral cotton backing; probably printed in the Tashkent Textile Combine
Three cotton patches on the backing
Cotton batting has been removed
The top photo shows one quarter of the folded kurpa.
Good condition except for area of stains along bottom and small area of light red stain (see detail photos). The cloth is strong with no tears or color runs.

Faux-ikat was very popular both for girls’ and womens’ dresses and for bedding quilts and floor cushions. Less expensive than real ikat, it was printed on silk as well as cotton.
There was little furniture in a Central Asian home. Large floor cushions served as seating. Thick quilts (called “kurpa”) were laid on the floor and acted as mattresses and covers. When not in use, they were folded and carefully stacked against a wall. This pile of bedding quilts was called a “chuk”.

The archival photo (c.1930s-40s) by Max Penson shows an Uzbek family taking a meal with their stack of quilts piled neatly behind them. The top left quilt is made from faux-ikat cloth.
The bottom photo was taken recently in the Tashkent kurpa bazaar.

Price: $125.00
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FAUX-IKAT CLOTH (VFOTNB-115)

Uzbekistan, circa 1980s

96” x 39” (selvedges may have been removed, but this is a standard width)
13” repeat (The entire length of cloth is not shown in the photo.)
May be silk, or perhaps a silk blend
Machine-woven and screen-printed
Like-new condition

Faux-ikat was very popular with Central Asian women and girls. Printed ikat such as this cloth would have been made into chemises like the one in the photo below.

The photograph of young women modeling the latest styles is from an Uzbek fashion magazine from 1975.

If you are interested in this fabric, please contact Susan Meller.

Price: $75 for the entire length

Price: $75.00
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FAUX-IKAT SILK SATEEN (VFOTNB-114)

Uzbekistan, circa 1980s

94” x 38” selvedge to selvedge (both selvedges intact)
28” repeat (Each orange tulip is 12” from top to bottom of the stem. The entire length of cloth is not shown in the photo.)
Machine-woven and screen-printed high luster silk sateen with tulip motifs
Printed at the V.V. Kuybisheva Factory, Margilan
Like-new condition

Faux-ikat was very popular with Central Asian women and girls. Printed silk ikat such as this cloth would have been made into chemises like the one in the photo below.

The photograph of young women modeling the latest styles is from an Uzbek fashion magazine from 1975.

If you are interested in this fabric, please contact Susan Meller.

Price: $75 for the entire length

Price: $75.00
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UZBEK PRINTED COTTON CLOTH (VFOTNB-113)

Uzbekistan, circa 1970s

80” x 31” (selvedge to selvedge)
Good quality cotton
Selvedges intact
Good condition,except for some light stains (see bottom four photos)

A pretty length of floral fabric – most likely used for a quilt cover.

Beginning in the 1930s, the Soviets built large textile combines in Central Asia that both wove and printed cloth. This fabric was very likely produced in the Tashkent Textile Combine – the largest in Central Asia.

Price: $100.00
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FAUX-IKAT (VFSC-108)

Uzbekistan or Tajikistan, c.1960s-1980s

Printed silk blend?; 29” selvedge to selvedge; 15” repeat.
Illustrated in SILK and COTTON page 272

This fabric has a very soft hand and drape. The weft appears to be silk, perhaps a blend with a cotton warp. There are a few small stains and a few tiny holes that are barely noticeable in the 80” length. Both selvedges are intact. The cloth was originally used as a quilt cover. It has been machine-washed with no shrinkage or color runs.

80″ Length

SOLD

Price: $0.00 per yard
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ROSE CLUSTERS (VFOTNB-105)

Uzbekistan, c.1970s

Fine quality printed cotton sateen; 29” selvedge to selvedge; 15” repeat (see pillow in photo above).

This fabric and “Roses and Violets” were both probably printed at the Tashkent Textile Combine, the huge vertical mill that was the largest in the Soviet Union at this time. Except for the blue violets, both patterns have the same color palette.

This length of cloth has never been used and is in excellent condition. A test piece was washed in cold water with mild soap and there was no color run.

Sold in 1 yard increments @$75, or $225 for the entire uncut 140” length.

Price: $75.00 per yard
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FLORAL STRIPE with ROSES (VFOTNB-104)

Uzbekistan, c.1960s

Fine quality printed cotton sateen; 27.75” selvedge to selvedge; 16.5” repeat.

A very dramatic pattern with its oversized deep coral roses nestled among blue daisy-like flowers. This length of cloth has never been used and is in excellent condition. A test piece was washed in cold water with mild soap and there was no color run.

Sold in 1 yard increments @$75, or $350 for the entire uncut 6 yard length.

Price: $75.00 per yard
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FAUX-IKAT COTTON CLOTH (VFOTNB-103)

Uzbekistan or Tajikistan, c.1970s

Fine quality printed cotton sateen; 28.5” selvedge to selvedge; 9.5” repeat. (see pillow in photo above).

4 uncut yards in excellent unused condition

Printed in either Uzbekistan or Tajikistan in one of the large textile combines built during the Soviet era.

Other examples of fabrics with printed-ikat patterns are illustrated in SILK and COTTON, pages 272-273.

Faux-ikats were considerably less expensive that the real thing and were very popular with women and girls for robes, dresses, and quilts. The patterns were printed on cotton, silk, and synthetics in the textile mills of Uzbekistan, Tajikistan, and Kyrgyzstan.

This length of cloth has never been used and is in excellent condition. This fabric was not washed because a test piece lost some of the intensity of the sage green when washed in cold water with mild soap.

$75 per yard or $200 for the entire length of 4 yards.

Price: $200.00
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