In nineteenth century Central Asia it was said that you could tell a man by his hat. His specific ethnic group, tribe, region, or even the town he came from could be identified from the patterns and style of his hat. Except for caps sewn by nomadic women or mothers for their young children, most skullcaps were made by individual craftswomen and sold in the bazaars. However, during the 1920s and ‘30s, the Soviets began organizing these women into cooperatives (artels). Regional styles, designs, and stitches were retained and new ones added. Three basic shapes prevailed – square, round, and conical.
Women also wore distinctive headwear. For everyday wear, Kyrgyz women wore tall, white, turban-like headdresses; Kazak women, white cowl-like headdresses; and Kungrat women in the southern regions of Uzbekistan an elaborate headdress of multiple scarves wrapped around a soft, rounded cap with a long embroidered plait-cover hanging down the back. Uzbek, Tajik, and Turkmen women and girls wore embroidered skullcaps in regional styles and patterns.
UZBEK-LAKAI HAT(ATHNB-170) Uzbekistan, mid-20th century![]() 20.5” circumference x 6.5” diameter x 5.5” high This hat was most likely made in southern Uzbekistan by a woman from the Uzbek-Lakai tribe. Narrow rows of tight machine-stitches create a pleasing ribbed effect. View Details » |
TURKMEN BABY’S HAT (ATHNB-168)Central Asia, mid-20th century![]() 14.5” circumference x 4” diameter x 3” high As was the custom, a Turkmen mother (most likely from the Tekke tribe) made this little hat for her young child. The stitches are so tiny one needs a magnifying glass to see them clearly. View Details » |
UZBEK-LAKAI HAT (ATHBBNB-167)Uzbekistan, mid-20th century![]() 20” circumference x 6.5” diameter x 5.25” high This hat was probably made in southern Uzbekistan by a woman from the Uzbek-Lakai tribe. Narrow rows of tight machine-stitches create a pleasing ribbed effect View Details » |
FERGHANA VALLEY HAT (ATHNB-145)Uzbekistan, circa 1970s![]() 21” circumference x 6” diameter x 3” high This girl’s hat is embroidered with a type of fine cross-stitch called “iroki”. It resembles petit point in appearance and covers the entire surface of the hat. View Details » |
MAN’S CHUST-STYLE HAT (ATHSC-162)Kokand, Uzbekistan. Late 20th century![]() 21.5” circumference x 6” diameter x 5.25” high (when folded) The ubiquitous square black skullcap worn mainly by men and boys throughout Uzbekistan originated in the city od Chust, located in the Ferghana Valley. It is characterized by four highly stylized “kalampir” (capsicum peppers). The intense heat of the peppers was thought to protect the wearer from evil spirits. The crown of the hat was encircled by a border of arches which some say symbolize gates through which no enemy can pass. The pattern varies by region, yet it has remained basically the same since it first gained popularity in the 1920s. The surface of the black cotton on this hat has been finished in such a way that it looks and feels like fine leather. The archival photograph is by the famous Russian photographer Max Penson. It was taken in Uzbekistan in the 1930s-40s. View Details » |
FERGHANA VALLEY HAT “100 YEARS” (ATHSC-161)Uzbekistan, c.1970s![]() 19” circumference x 5.5” diameter x 2.5” high This girl’s hat is embroidered with a type of fine cross-stitch called “iroki”. It resembles petit point in appearance and covers the entire surface of the hat. The number “100” and the Cyrillic letters that spell out “YEARS” most likely celebrates the 100th anniversary of Lenin’s birth in 1870. View Details » |
FERGHANA VALLEY HAT “GULNOZ” (ATHSC-160)Uzbekistan, c.1970s![]() 21.5” circumference x 6.5” diameter x 2.5” high This girl’s hat is embroidered with a type of fine cross-stitch called “iroki”. It resembles petit point in appearance and covers the entire surface of the hat. The Cyrillic letters spell out the girl’s name “GULNOZ” which means “Bloomimg”. Two small birds of happiness flank each of the flower heads. View Details » |
BOY’S CHUST-STYLE HAT (ATHBBSC-157)Kokand, Uzbekistan. c.1990s![]() 18.75” circumference x 4.75” diameter x 4” high The ubiquitous square black skullcap worn mainly by men and boys throughout Uzbekistan originated in the city of Chust, located in the Ferghana Valley. It is characterized by four highly stylized “kalampir” (capsicum peppers). The intense heat of the peppers was thought to protect the wearer from evil spirits. The crown of the hat was encircled by a border of arches which some say symbolize gates through which no enemy can pass. The pattern varies by region, yet it has remained basically the same since it first gained popularity in the 1920s. This colorful boy’s hat is a departure from the usual black and white Chust-style hat. The archival photograph is by the famous Russian photographer Max Penson. It was taken in Uzbekistan in the 1930s-40s. View Details » |
KULTA (ATBBHNB-135)South Uzbekistan. Third quarter 20th century![]() Cap 7” diameter; tail 16” x 7.25” Some Uzbek and Tajik women wore soft rounded caps with a long embroidered plait-cover that extended down the back. Called a kulta, kultapush, or kiygich, it served not only to cover a woman’s head, but her long braids as well. View Details » |
FERGHANA VALLEY HAT (ATBBHNB-129)Ferghana Valley, Uzbekistan. circa 1970s![]() 20.5” circumference x 6” diameter x 2.5” high This girl’s hat is embroidered with a type of fine cross-stitch called “iroki”. It resembles petit point in appearance and covers the entire surface of the hat. View Details » |
FERGHANA VALLEY HAT (ATBBNB-128)Ferghana Valley, Uzbekistan. circa 1970s![]() 19” circumference x 5.5” diameter x 3” high This hat is embroidered with a type of fine cross-stitch called “iroki”. It resembles petit point in appearance and covers the entire surface of the hat. View Details » |