Kokand, Uzbekistan. c.1990s

Click image to enlarge.    
Click image to enlarge.    
Click image to enlarge.    

18.75” circumference x 4.75” diameter x 4” high

Silk embroidery on what appears to be green silk

Black woven border around rim – looks like cotton

Red cotton lining

Machine “quilted”

Designed to fold into a flat triangle for ease of carrying

Very good condition.

Illustrated in SILK and COTTON page 141


The ubiquitous square black skullcap worn mainly by men and boys throughout Uzbekistan originated in the city of Chust, located in the Ferghana Valley. It is characterized by four highly stylized “kalampir” (capsicum peppers). The intense heat of the peppers was thought to protect the wearer from evil spirits. The crown of the hat was encircled by a border of arches, which some say symbolize gates through which no enemy can pass.

The pattern varies by region, yet it has remained basically the same since it first gained popularity in the 1920s. This colorful boy’s hat is a departure from the usual black and white Chust-style hat. The archival photograph is by the famous Russian photographer Max Penson. It was taken in Uzbekistan in the 1930s-40s.


If you are interested in this hat and would like more information please contact Susan Meller.

Price: $30.00
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